Now that we’ve had almost a month to digest Paris Men’s week, my thesis has once again been proven that there really is nothing better than a well-dressed man. With regards to the industry spotlight, most default to womenswear; however, menswear truly reigns over the epicenter of contemporary fashion. Menswear Creative Directors representing top couture houses like Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior have more household names than their womenswear counterparts -and for good reason. The presentation, the collections, and the reception are all stronger and certainly more curious.
Within the realm of men’s fashion, the depths of unchartered waters and space for exploration reaches beyond womenswear due to heightened styles and a more encouraging audience. The norms of what dictates the male uniform and the mediums in which they’re ‘allowed’ to play in have at last expanded. Fashion translates society and with a more expressive culture come more expressive and creatively charged fashion. Thank god for that because movements and trends churning out from menswear are impacting the entire industry. After all, mens and womens shows presenting together is only a singular indication that relevance is shifting.
From the Spring/Summer 2020 runway stood out four amazing collections, each on their own flexing brand identity muscles and pushing style boundaries that mustn’t be washed from the palate. Don’t let these designers slide under the radar!
Y / Project – Glen Martens
Glenn Martens has interpreted from the helm of Y / Project since 2013 and driven the powerhouse brand to a place that’s undeniably chic and playfully rough around the edges. As a brand, Y / Project claim to take a witty approach to historical references. S/S20 was no exception, especially seen in the distorted construction theme, giving the illusion that a thread is being pulled in some sort of a direction to achieve the gravity defying, seemingly wonky silhouette.
The pieces are wearable, thoughtfully designed, and combine an interesting use of materials. Between the standout outerwear pieces and absolutely on point styling, Martens has a distinct perspective and certainly has the floor.
Jacquemus – Simon Porte Jacquemus
While Jacquemus is currently basking in his ten year anniversary and ruling Instagram with his signature play on proportion, his menswear deserves equal attention. Seen in his latest show, ultra mini bags and noggin-swallowing hats also make a dual appearance in his mens ensembles.
Through a Parisian lavender field and down the quarter-mile fuchsia runway, walked a breathtaking array of prints, relaxed tailoring, and pastel heaven. Boxed off shorts and an array of canvas tied together with must-have accessories and oversized gems your girlfriend will definitely steal. The youthful and sexy nature of the peaking designer rings true throughout the joint collection and clearly portrays a vibe that’s laid back and inarguably effortless.
SSS World Corp – Justin O’SHea
In only its second trip around the sun, SSS World Corp came out swinging with big dick energy in a strong and cohesive S/S presentation. After his departure from Brioni in 2017, Creative Director, Justin O’Shea, is bringing an ethos to the SSS World Corp man that’s all about individuality, urban luxury, and confidence.
The saturated graphics, all-over prints, and sexy tailoring offer the type of cool that has a stiff upper lip and a hand tattoo. Styling featuring two-piece suits sans shirt, leather wingtips with silk shorts, and pearl necklaces underneath strong lapels screams aspirational DILF. While cheesey at times, you have to give up for the hambone who would full send one of these look. Definitely keep an eye out for where this suave brand takes off to.
Études – Jérémie Egry
Known for their high profile collabs, Études is not a new name on the block; but, certainly worthy of honorable mention this past runway season. In the midst of a tie dye takeover, Jérémie Egry, took an interesting approach to fabric treatment. In tonal shades, the Paris-based brand used stenciled screen printing, line-dry tie dyeing, and brushstroke techniques for a print reminiscent of urban camouflage.
Nylon bags, loud blazers, and notable introduced branded sunglasses were huge eye catchers and clear hero pieces for the label. The contradictions in the collection are what provide the most intrigue. Both sporty and clean, the strong marriage of streetwear and sportswear translated in a way that was refined yet in no way devoid of clout. The creative team behind Études walk the line of wearability and with a clear appetite for experimentation that’s enough to prove them tastemakers.
The exploratory styling, attractive contrasting, and range of menswear is killing the game and fueling the creativity within the industry. While tailoring and approachable separates provide a base, these four designers created their own storyline, identity, and style. It’s not enough to simply be fashionable. Seek out designers with a point of view and something to say. You’ll know because it will speak to you.
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